We try the decadent caviar menu at Chennai’s ITC Grand Chola

Caviar. There is something about the word. It sounds like it tastes: decadent, smooth, buttery. At ITC Grand Chola’s Ottimo Cucina Italiana, Chef Zubin Writer, Chef Culinaire, presents these pearls of luxury while highlighting the complexity of flavours.

The Chef’s Special Caviar Menu that was recently introduced at the Italian restaurant, keeps updating itself with newer dishes where caviar plays the lead role. Think fettucine with seafood and caviar; pan seared salmon, Pinot Grigio emulsion, basil oil drizzle, caviar; white asparagus, citrus emulsion, seared scallop and caviar…

“Earlier, before coming up with this menu, I used to source caviar for a few guests who I knew valued the luxury,” says Chef Zubin. He was incorporating truffle in his dishes and wanted to introduce something new and decided to take it a notch up with caviar. “I thought why not pair it with scallops and white asparagus. Caviar highlights the other ingredients in the food,” he adds.

Caviar served with blini, avocado battuta, glazed red peppers, mascarpone and cracked pepper cream, egg, citrus shallot glaze, capers, and parsley
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Special Arrangement

While there is a steady stream of guests who want caviar, the chef says he requires prior intimation — a couple of days — for these dishes. “Not everybody would probably understand or appreciate caviar. It’s an acquired taste,” says the chef who loves the burst of caviar and the subtle fish flavour that comes from it. For now, the restaurant uses Ossetra caviar, which comes from the Ossetra sturgeon, and is known for its dark, rich eggs. It is considered one of the world’s most prized caviars, alongside Beluga and Sevruga and sometimes takes up to a week to import.

While coming up with these courses, Chef Zubin says the most important thing was to make sure that the caviar complements the creation rather than overpower it. Flavours were balanced out during the trials. New but unusual food friendships were forged, like gnocchi with pumpkin puree and caviar; parmesan panna cotta with caviar and pecan nut crumble, red pepper relish and caviar. And which is Chef Zubin’s favourite? The Fettucine Alla Scoglio E Caviale, and the lobster tortelli with a basil and aged parmesan emulsion with caviar, he says.

Chef Zubin Writer
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Special Arrangement

The chef is also excited about the wines he has paired with the dishes. A lot of thought has been put into the grape chosen for each dish, he says, adding that they made a bold decision to pair red wine with the seafood fettucine instead of the traditional white. It works, since the wine is smooth and the fettucine has clear, vivid flavours. His perfectly seared salmon with a crisp skin is paired with a rosé. “The rosé’s acidity compliments the buttery sauce and the salmon. A little sweetness from rosé, saltiness from caviar and earthiness from salmon was the combination I had in mind,” he explains.

One would assume the dessert would be devoid of caviar. But no. Here, gleaming little balls of coffee caviar add drama to a serving of creamy tiramisu. He serves it with a shot of Limoncello. “A match made in heaven,” he smiles.

Prices start at ₹3,050 plus taxes. For reservations, call: 044 2220 0000.

White asparagus, citrus emulsion, seared scallop, and caviar
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Special Arrangement

Potato and leek soup, cuttle fish, pancetta crumble, and caviar
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Special Arrangement